Homebrew Recipe Calculator, Blog, How To, & Recipes

Sep
18
2012

How To: Modify a Turkey Fryer Burner To Support a Keggle

 

Homebrewing equipment can be expensive, and if you're anything like me, you quickly realize the limitations of your homebrewing equipment and find the need to upgrade.  Part of the fun of homebrewing, outside of making delicious homebrew, is using your creativity to handcraft thrifty solutions to homebrew challenges.  We've already shown you how to create a Keggle out of a keg but what if you've upgraded from a Turkey Fryer to a Keggle but haven't yet upgraded your burner to a tiered system?

I started homebrewing using a 4 gallon canning pot on the stove.  Aside from my wife complaining about the smell, I wanted to start full boils so I picked up a 7 gallon Turkey Fryer on sale at Home Depot for $30.  This setup worked well for a few brews but I did get boil overs with nearly every batch because 6.5 gallons of water in a 7 gallon turkey fryer only leaves about an inch of empty space at the top of the pot.  

 

I've recently upgraded to a Keggle but I'm not ready to invest in a tiered gravity system yet, so I planned on using the burner that came with my turkey fryer.  Unfortunately, the bottom of the keggle is rounded (unlike the turkey fryer) and the keg's outer rim is larger than the diameter of the turkey fryer which makes for a very uneven surface. When I placed the keggle on the burner its rounded center rested on the burner's center support and the keggle easily swung around in a circular fashion.  To solve this issue, I welded a support structure on top of the burner, allowing the weight of the keggle to be evenly distributed and eliminate the rocking altogether.

It was my first ever welding project and I knew I would eventually be upgrading so I wasn't too concerned about making it look pretty, which is quite obvious when looking at the pictures.  

What's most important is that the added support can handle the weight of the filled keggle and remain steady to prevent boiling hot wort from dumping on you and ruining your brew day.

 

Required Tools and Equipment

  • Keggle
  • Burner from a Turkey Fryer
  • 4 Feet of Weldable Steel (I used 1.5" Wide X .25" Thick to support the weight.  I paid about $15)
  • Something to Cut Steel with (i.e. grinder or cutting torch)
  • Welder and welding supplies

Instructions

  • Cut the weldable steel into 4 pieces.  (I used 2 X 15" pieces and 2 X 9" pieces).
  • Weld the four pieces into a rectangle. 
  • Place the turkey fryer burner upside down on top of the welded rectangle.
  • Position the burner, centered in the rectangle so at least two opposite sides of the rectangle are touching the frame of the burner.
  • Weld the new rectangle to the burner.
  • Let it cool off before touching or moving it (it gets really hot)
That's it!
 
If you are not an experienced welder, make sure you have someone experienced to help you so that you don't get hurt or burn down your garage.
 

Overall, I'm happy with the upgrade which only cost me $15 for the steel and some time to put it all together.  It was also a fun lesson in welding which was way easier than I had expected.  Now that I've welded a bit of steel I can start thinking about designing and building my own tiered gravity system (future post).

Happy Brewing!

Jul
18
2012

Convert a Keg to a Keggle/Brew Pot

Building a keggle (brew kettle) from an old keg is a great way to get an inexpensive large stainless steel brew pot for your homebrew. Manufactured brewing kettles can be very expensive, they offer a variety of features but what if you just want to brew larger batches of beer without spending lots of money, the converted keg could be your answer. Make sure that you get your keg from a reputable source. I know there are many legal concerns with obtaining old kegs so make sure you find out what is legal. Also make sure that you know what you are doing, the keg can be under pressure and you could get seriously injured. We do not recommend doing this without expert help.

To convert my keg to a stainless steel brew pot I first had to cut off the top. I created a jig for my angle grinder to cut the top off the keg. I used a short 2x4 bolted to an angled piece of steel. A door handle drill bit, 2” I think, bolted to the 2x4 worked perfect to fit in the top of the keg. The handle of the angle grinder unscrewed and I was able to use it like a bolt to the angled steel.

After I cut the top off the keg, I used a Dremil and sandpaper to clean up the rough edges on the opening of the keggle. You don’t want to cut yourself on those rough cuts when cleaning out the keg.

I used a step drill bit to drill the holes for the weldless valve and sight glass. I picked up the wedless valve from my local home brew shop and the weldless sight glass/thermometer came from http://www.brewhardware.com/.

I built the keggle pickup tube from copper pipe purchased at my home improvement store. The pickup works okay. I try to whirlpool my wort in the brew pot, let it sit for 10 minutes, and then drain. I still seem to pick up quite a bit of hops. I might need to come up with another design or add some type of filter. If you have any suggestions please let me know.

I have brewed about 6 batches of homebrew in my converted keg and I absolutely love it. No more fear of boil-overs when doing 5 gallon batches. I have yet to do a 10 gallon batch but if I am ever so inclined I am ready. Not sure if I could mash for 10 gallons in my 10 gallon water cooler, it would have to be a small beer.

Feb
9
2012

Homemade Homebrew Mash Tun

When making the jump from extract-brewing to all-grain home brewing you are going to need a mash tun. One of the least expensive homemade mash tun designs is made out of a cooler. You can use a square cooler, like the ones you would use to hold cold drinks, or a round cooler, like you would use to hold water at a soccer game. Using a cheap rectangle cooler, hoses, and plastic spigot you could build one for about $20, depending on the cost of the cooler. Many people will also convert stainless steel kettles or old kegs into mash tuns, however they don’t hold the heat like a cooler will. A homemade mash tun is not only easy and fun to build but will allow you to brew some amazing home brew.

Homemade Mash Tun

I decided to use an orange round water cooler from Home Depot for my homebrew mash tun, partially because I had a convenient spot to store it and I also liked how it looked. I purchased everything from Home Depot, except a stainless steel washer that is needed on the inside of the mash tun. The total cost for the do it yourself mash tun was $81.65 with tax. Here is a checklist of the tools and supplies you will need:

Tools to Build Mash Tun

  • Hacksaw
  • Screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers (or regular)
  • crescent wrench or pliers
  • Teflon tape

Parts for Homebrew Mashtun

Parts for Homebrew Mash Tun

  • 10 Gallon water cooler
  • ⅜” female to female ball valve (plumbing)
  • ¼” male brass pipe plug (plumbing)
  • ⅜” x ⅜” female pipe to barb adapter (plumbing)
  • ⅜” x ⅜” male pipe to barb adapter (plumbing)
  • ⅜” x ⅜” male to male 1 ½” long extension (plumbing)
  • ⅜” oring (over by the faucets)
  • 2 - ¼” x ⅝” stainless steel hose clamp (plumbing)
  • ½” x 12” stainless steel braided faucet supply line (over by the faucets)
  • 3 - ⅝” fender washers (hardware)
  • 1 - ⅝” stainless steel fender washers (not sure where to get these)

Homebrew Mash Tun

Steps to Build Home Made Mash Tun

  1. Use a wrench and remove the spigot on the cooler mash tun, keep the rubber insert.
  2. Use the hacksaw and cut the ends off of the faucet supply line.
  3. Use the needle-nose pliers and remove the hose found in the supply line.
  4. Add the hose clamp and the ¼” male brass pipe plug to one end of the braided mash tun filter, tighten the hose clamp.
  5. Add the hose clamp and the ⅜” x ⅜” female pipe to barb adapter to the other end of the braided mash tun filter, and tighten.
  6. Add Teflon tape to both sides of the ⅜” x ⅜” male to male 1 ½” long extension.
  7. Insert the ⅜” x ⅜” male to male 1 ½” long extension into the hole in the cooler mash tun, it is easiest to do this from the inside of the mash tun making sure the rubber insert stays in place.
  8. Screw on the newly created mash tun filter.
  9. Screw on the ball valve.
  10. Add Teflon tape to the ⅜” x ⅜” male pipe to barb adapter.
  11. Screw the ⅜” x ⅜” male pipe to barb adapter into the ball valve.
  12. Tighten everything up with a crescent wrench.
  13. Test by filling with water to make sure there are not any leaks in your new mash tun.
  14. Brew a batch of all-grain homebrew.

Those are the tools, parts, and directions for building a homebrew home made cooler mash tun. I would like to add a site glass and thermometer to mine so stay tuned for more.

Homebrew Home made Mashtun

Feb
5
2012

What Equipment Is Needed to Make Beer at Home

When I decided to start home brewing, one of the main obstacles for me was the home brew equipment.  I didn't know what home brew equipment I needed and there was quite a variety of different home brew kits and home brew equipment available.  I talked to some other home brewers and looked at home brew tutorials, but because I hadn't yet brewed a batch of beer or watched anyone else brew a batch of beer, everything was unclear.

In this blog post, I’ve outlined the different pieces of home brew equipment that are required to make beer, using the full extract process (all grain brewing requires some additional equipment).  I'll also talk a bit about some optional home brew equipment and give suggestions to help the new home brewer get started brewing beer at home easily.

Here's a checklist of what is needed:

Brew Journal

You’ll want to document your home brew process and recipe so that you can re-produce the great beer you make.  How awful would it be if you brewed the beer of all beers but failed to record your process and ingredients?  Most brewers use a simple bound notepad and that is more than sufficient.  The more information you log the better as it will help you to understand why brews turn out differently and ultimately make you a better brewer. 

Brew Kettle

One thing people often don't realize is that making beer involves boiling the beer ingredients in water for a fairly long time (cooking the wort).  Most batches are 5 gallons, so you're going to need a fairly large kettle or pot to cook your wort in.  When I started home brewing, I had hoped to use one of my kitchen cooking pots and quickly realized they were not big enough.  My largest pot is just over 1 gallon.  To get good results, you should be using a brew kettle or brew pot that can hold no less than 3 1/2 (3.5) gallons while still having some room at the top.  The wort is going to be very hot and you don't want to be lugging around a pot filled to the brim with boiling hot liquid.  Ideally you want a stainless steel pot, but a porcelain enamel pot will work just fine too.  In my case, my wife already had a porcelain enamel pot she was using for canning, and I started with that.  The porcelain enamel pots are definitely cheaper than the stainless steel pots, so if you're on a budget, you can save some money there.

Sanitizing Solution

You’ll need some sanitizing solution to disinfect the home brew equipment used in the brewing process.  There are lots of different sanitizers on the market, and some home brewers just use bleach.  I’ve used the iodine based sanitizer (IO Star) and the Star San acid sanitizer.  Personally, I prefer the iodine sanitizer as the contact time is only 1 minute, it’s not acid based, and it doesn’t foam very much.  The foam in Star San supposedly helps penetrate small spaces, but it also makes it hard to see what your sanitizing.  I typically fill the sink with sanitizer and pull stuff out as I need it.  Using the iodine sanitizer allows me to look into the sanitizing solution and grab what I need.  I wasn’t able to do that with Star San.  Also, I would not recommend using the Iodine sanitizer in a plastic bathtub or sink.  I did this once and it left an unpleasant yellow stain in my tub.

Hydrometer and Turkey Baster (or thief)

A hydrometer is used in the home brew process to measure the specific gravity of the home brew.  Technically, you don’t need one to brew your own beer, but any serious brewer needs one to measure the alcohol content of their beer.  There is definitely a wide variety of them on the market.  I use a triple scale hydrometer and measuring tube, which are the cheapest ones you can get, and they work great.  Be careful not to push it off the counter like I did, because it’s made out of glass and it will break. 

I also recommend a turkey baster for extracting beer from the fermenter for tastings or hydrometer readings.  You can also buy what’s called The Thief for the same purpose, but chances are you already have a turkey baster in your home and you can save yourself a few bucks.

Hydrometer

Thermometer

You'll need a thermometer to measure the temperature of liquid a few times during the brewing process.  If you're steeping specialty grains in your home brew (which you should), you'll need to verify the temperature of the steeping water one or more times.  When you're cooling your wort, after the boil, you'll need to verify the temperature before pitching the yeast (adding the yeast to your wort).  For these two temperature readings, a floating thermometer is sufficient and you should be able to pick one up for less than $10. Of course, if you have a brew pot with a built in temperature gauge, you might not need a thermometer.

Grain Bags and Hop Socks (optional)

If you’re steeping with speciality grains, you’ll need grain bags to hold the steeping grains.  This is essentially a flexible cloth mesh bag that you can fill with grains and tie off.  I use the disposable ones as you can just toss the bag in the trash when you’re done, but there are also reusable grain bags made of nylon and other materials.

If you’re using leaf hops, you may want to use a hop sock, which is essentially the same as the grain bag and allows you to contain and dispose of the hops easily.  I’ve used these a few times and what I like best about them is that you can wrap them around your nose and breathe in their delightful aroma.

Steeping Grain Bag

Carboy

Once you have finished cooking and cooling your wort, you need to transfer it to your primary fermenter where it will live for the next few weeks or longer depending on the type of beer you're making.  A home brew fermenter can be pretty much anything that is food grade plastic or glass, prevents oxygen absorption, can release pressure from carbon dioxide production and can hold at least 5 gallons of wort.  Most online advice will suggest that you use a glass carboy, however, I recommend using the plastic Better Bottles.  

When I was getting started in brewing I read many horror stories about glass carboys breaking, causing not only awful messes but also serious injuries.  This led me to start with the plastic Better Bottle and I wouldn't recommend anything else.  They are very light, easy to transport, and if you drop them they won't break.  Because they are so durable, you can actually pick them up and shake them to aerate your wort before pitching the yeast.  They are also very easy to clean.  Some hot water and soap with a few shakes usually cleans mine quite well. If you have the choice and the budget, I suggest going with a 6 gallon better bottle over the 5 gallon as it will allow you some extra space for krausen on high gravity brews.

A lot of brewers will also recommend two stage fermentation.  This involves transfering your brew from your primary fermenter to a secondary fermenter after initial fermentation has occurred.   There is a lot of debate as to whether or not secondary fermentation adds enough value to make it worth it.  I suggest starting with a single fermenter and if you decide to start using secondary fermentation you can pick up a second fermenter.

Better Bottle Carboy

Funnel and Filter (optional)

When the wort is ready to go into the carboy, you may wish to use a funnel and filter to get it into the fermenter.  This approach can definitely yield less trub (fragments of grain and hops) in your fermenter, but it can be cumbersome and time consuming as the filter easily becomes clogged and you have to hold the brew kettle to pour the wort through the funnel.  If you have a brew kettle with a spout, this option would work very well.  Otherwise, you can use a siphon and save the funnel/filter option if you want every last drop of your wort. 

Carboy Bung, Blowoff Tubing and Airlock

When your home brew is fermenting in the carboy, you need to protect it from contamination.  This is typically done by sealing the carboy with a carboy bung, which is essentially a rubber stopper with a lip to prevent it from falling inside.  It also has a small hole bored through the middle so that you can insert an airlock or blow off tubing.

Blow of tubing can be used for the first few days to prevent the krausen from backing up into the airlock. Some brew shops sell blow off tubing assemblies for Better Bottles, but you’ll save money if you use your existing bung, and pick up some vinyl food grade tubing from your local hardware store.  

The drilled hole sizes may vary based on the bung.  I took my bung in with me and found tubing that was nice and snug.  Get at least 6 feet...it’s cheap and you don’t want it too short.  After blowoff, you’ll need to seal your carboy with an airlock.  I’ve only used the three piece airlocks, which work great, and you can pick them up for around a buck. 

Blowoff Assembly

Auto Siphon (Racking Cane)

Depending on your home brew process, you may use a siphon one or more times.  I use a siphon to transfer my wort from the brew kettle to the fermenter on brew day and to transfer the fermented beer from the fermenter to the bottling bucket on bottle day.  You’ll need some more tubing to use with your siphon, and again, the tubing size depends on the siphon you get.  I’ve had a few different siphons and they all work the same way.  I wouldn’t recommend going with anything fancy here as the cheap ones work just fine. 

Auto Siphon / Racking Cane

Bottling Bucket, Spigot and Lid

On bottle day, you’ll need to transfer your home brew to a bottling bucket.  For the most part, these all work the same and come with a spigot and lid.  The lid keeps contaminates out while you bottle and the spigot is used to disperse the beer from the bucket to the bottles.  You can also add a spring tip bottle filler which allows you to push it against the inside bottom of the bottle and disperse the beer from the bottom of the bottle.  There are many other bottling options including bottling guns, but these will cost you more.

Bucket

Bottles, Bottle Capper and Bottle Caps

Most home brewers start off by putting their beer in bottles.  I have yet to make the step up to a keg system, and I’m not sure I will anytime soon.  I enjoy having the beer in bottles for storage, portability and the fact that I don’t have 5 gallons of beer on tap, continually tempting me to drink it.  If you’re going the bottle route, you’ll need bottles.  You can buy them or you can use empty bottles from beer you’ve already enjoyed.  See Jason’s great post on home brew bottle sanitation.  

Depending on your exact home brew batch size, you should be able to get between 45 and 50 12oz bottles of beer from a 5 gallon batch. You’ll also need bottle caps and a capper to seal the bottles.  I use a capper (the Red Barron) that came with the kit I purchased and it which works well.  There are fancier ones out there, but I’d rather spend my extra money on ingredients.

Bottle Caps  

Cooling Bath (optional)

When the wort is done cooking, you need to cool it quickly.  Many home brewers use wort chillers, spirals of copper tubing used to transfer heat, but they can be quite expensive and you can easily get by without them.  You’ll need something that can hold water, ice and your brew kettle.  I use one of those large plastic storage bins you can buy at Target after Christmas.  I can cool my 3 ½ (3.5) gallon kettle to 65 degrees within 25 minutes.  I add water and a large bag of ice and place the kettle with lid inside.  I then place the storage bin lid on top and wait.  I check it about every 5 minutes to circulate the water which moves the warmer water away from the kettle walls.  I’ve also tried using the sink and bathtub with no success.

Cooling Bath

Miscellaneous Items

Most everything else you will need to home brew including scissors, can opener, stirring spoon and other items should be readily available in your home. 

That’s it!  Just a few items and you should be well on your way to becoming a home brew master.  Should you buy a home brew kit or just get what you need?   The short answer is, it depends.  Mainly, it depends on what type of home brew equipment you want, and whether there is a kit that has most or all of the stuff you want at a price you want to pay.

In my case, I could have saved around $40 if I had bought the individual items as opposed to a kit.  If you do go the kit route, keep in mind that most kits do not include the kettle.  

Good luck and I hope you find home brewing as enjoyable as I do.